TheFirstTwoWeeksofOurSriLankaJourney

We arrived in Trincomalee during the low season, when the monsoon keeps most travellers away. Staying in a beachside cabana near Uppuveli, our early worries about rain quickly faded: the days stayed warm and bright, and the showers saved themselves for the night.

We rented a scooter to explore nearby Nilaveli Beach, where we spent hours swimming and lazing at a beach bar called 'Why Not'. From there we rode to Fort Frederick, an old Dutch fort still occupied by the military, and to the Thirukkoneswaram Kovil — a vividly coloured temple perched dramatically on the cliffs above the ocean, with free-roaming deer and spectacular views.

Further south we found Marble Beach, beautifully deserted apart from a few military-controlled stretches. 'A shame we'd forgotten our goggles,' one of us noted — the snorkelling here looked superb. As heavier rain rolled in that evening, we retreated to a beach bar and then to our cabana.

The journey then continued to Sigiriya by bus, complete with some very unusual in-flight-style entertainment. Afternoon rain delayed us at first, but the skies cleared enough to climb Pidurangala Rock. From the top we looked across at Lion Rock rising out of the green landscape, the whole scene glowing as the sun began to set.